Absinthe Tasting
Origin: France, Switzerland, USA / 55-69% / Price: ca. 30-60€
I do not want to summarize the great and exciting history of absinthe here. Many blogs, interesting articles and books have already done this and also certainly better than I could do it here on my own. Let it be said though that absinthe is definitely one of the spirits that to this day envelops a very specific, mysterious and semi-esoteric flair. With the bar renaissance in particular came a new perspective on and new infatuation with that vintage feeling you get with absinthe. For some it is the grüne Fee, la Fee Verte, for others the green devil. Especially recommended, however, is this exciting article from the Science History Institute, which on the one hand tells you a bit about the history, but in particular also takes up the exciting question about the effect, composition and chemistry behind it, which has, after all, led to the well-known bans throughout history.
Tasting Conclusion:
The first 4 are really all exciting as a spirit in their own way, great for sipping too. Even the Pernod could be enjoyed neat as well and the Grande Absente is also not completely insufficient, just very monotonous in comparison to the rest, meaning the price reflects the quality quite precisely in this tasting round.
But even the Grande Absente, if you really have to / want to spend not too much money, can still act as a somewhat solid mixing absinthe.
The woodruff note in the Pernod puts me off a bit, especially for mixing (neat it was an interesting aroma), it is certainly not something I would want in most drinks using Absinthe as a little accent to the drink.
The St. George was designed for high-quality cocktails and will of course work great, especially in the Sazerac, since he is already in the mouth / aroma basically half a rye whiskey.
The other 3 best rated ones get a clear recommendation from me. I am once again very surprised how much more differences and aromas you can find in spirit categories you are not too familiar with, as long as you got some tasting experience with other spirits over time.
Absinthe Bourgeois
(France / 55% / ca. 40€ / 500ml):
Nose:
Surprised me positively as not a big fan of anise / licorice / absinthe / etc., has something inviting, oldschool, not a pure anise bomb, clear hints of long dried citrus peel even, plus clearly fennel seeds, almost something of tobacco leaves, cucumber, behind it of course also some anise and very high quality licorice but discreet, the less % than the others also contribute to the welcoming tone
Taste:
Great, crisp citrus notes of lemon and lime zest, fennel, linseed, some thyme and very fresh - not like with some others this over concertrated - anise, wormwood, very nice mouthfeel even at 55%, creamy, silky, almost like milk
Finish:
Again, the less % are helping him, no burning, also no excessive cough syrup character as I know it from some others, nice (fresh) herbal blend in essential oils, plus citrus freshness, eucalyptus
9/10 Points
St. George Absinthe
(USA / 60% / ca. 50€ / 700ml):
Nose:
Blindfolded I probably would not think of absinthe, a bit like its own category, as if you mix great rye with lemon balm and with a touch of absinthe, very aromatic, I would like to have it as a perfume (even if it would then have slight granny touches), reminds me of high quality balm creams for muscle regeneration, lemon oil, fennel, thyme, cumin, green tea, rosemary, lavender, some licorice, all sorts of dried flowers
Taste:
Quite the intense start, intense basil, tarragon, behind that anise, slightly souring, quite pure, like an eau de vie from those herbs, behind that some wormwood, licorice, some lemon zest, lavender, overall more an absinthe than the nose suggested, more saliva makes it rounder, more mainstream, licorice, tarragon, a bit of tree bark, oaky almost
Finish:
Fennel nicely forward, almost something cinnamon-like about it, star anise, very nice, becoming slightly bitter, again reminiscent of oak notes, round and varied
8.5/10 Points
Vieux Pontarlier
(France / 65% / ca. 58€ / 700ml):
Nose:
Exciting, has something earthy, dark, black pepper crushed and some fresh forest earth with moss, burnt brown sugar, very heavy, dark anise, wormwood and somehow also floral sweet notes, fresh mint, sometimes briefly Madagascar vanilla and citrus peel soaked in sugar, must confess one of the most beautiful, exciting and interesting spirit noses that I have had so far outside of high quality whiskies
Taste:
Spicy start, green and some white pepper, moss and eucalyptus, nice fresh anise and lime zest, behind then clearly licorice and some wormwood, later fennel and also the floral tones come back with more saliva, elderflower in between, again and again short spikes of green pepper, cardamom, some camphor, citrus and pepper play in alternation with anise
Finish:
Minty, homemade organic toothpaste in the first seconds when swallowing, but in the positive sense, then flaxseed, fennel, camphor, the lime zest comes back nicely, pepper is now only gently integrated in the last note, some dill as in Aquavit comes at the very end
9/10 Points
Duplais Verte
(Switzerland / 68% / ca. 60€ / 700ml):
Nose:
Such different flavors in absinthes... I have here very clear cocoa and dark chocolate, so far not experienced that in any absinthe, coffee beans, a dark sweetness, not quite as complex as some others, but very inviting and mysterious, very aromatic, almost perfume-like anise and wormwood smell, sounds a bit artificially sweet maybe but it is not, some thyme and pencil lead
Taste:
Wouh, even more pointy and spicier than the Pontarlier, an oily, intense infusion of white pepper, wormwood herb, star anise, some clove and fennel, comes down a bit with salivation after 6-8 seconds, licorice, the semi-sweet variety, black bell pepper now, green bell pepper, cocoa beans discreetly behind that, zucchini, a bit dill, lavender, brown sugar, hint of lime, but overll less citrus than the previous ones
Finish:
Dill comes more forward, along with fennel tea, brown sugar, gentian, this really has something of high quality cough syrup, but not so sweet, rather nicely dry-balanced with lovely herbs from all over the garden, long, complex, mild
8/10 Points
Pernod Supérieure
(France / 68% / ca. 35€ / 700ml):
Nose:
Anise, woodruff quite clearly behind that, nettle tea, some cucumber and fennel, acidic-vegetal and a bit artificial mixture, some wormwood
Taste:
Quite sweetish start, stays through to the end as an undertone, star anise, wormwood, licorice, slightly woody tones, cucumber, some dill, nettles again, woodruff is still in the background, but much more discreet now, everything very balanced, almost nothing plays itself into the foreground
Finish:
Here it becomes a bit rough, strangely oaky-tannic, long dried herbs, star anise, nettle tea, fennel, so far the most unpleasant finish, not bad, but clearly more unbalanced than the rest and the tannins also remain quite long
7/10 Points
Grande Absente
(France / 69% / ca. 30€ / 700ml):
Nose:
Clearly the most monotonous of the noses, standard slightly sweetened anise, wormwood, some fennel still, nothing more really, very slight dill background note
Taste:
For the % quite round and smooth, anise balsam, fennel seed, dill, herbal tea, some licorice and white sugar, bit of lemon peel, not very complex, but quite well balanced
Finish:
Anise, licorice, fennel, a bit boring and direct, dill, medium length
6.5/10 Points
