#30 | DSTRCT.ART, Düsseldorf, Germany
Last Visit: May 2024
We are currently writing some bar reviews that deal with historical, long-standing institutions. So it's all the more fitting to present a very young, fresh and, for various reasons, exciting project in between: DSTRCT.ART in Düsseldorf.
We actually wanted to be the first bar culture-focused medium to tell you about this new insider tip in the Rhineland. But unfortunately, the Fizzz-Awards by the magazine of the same name — in which the bar just months after opening is already one of the top 3 nominees for “Bar of the Year” in Germany — put an end to this plan. Of course, that's only because we wanted to take our time and also test the second volume of the menu, which is called “Artbook” here. Journalistic due diligence and all that. Speaking of testing: Boy, did we test it. We were actually able to work through both extensive menus entirely in two extensive sessions.
But let's be more specific: DSTRCT.ART is quite inconspicuous from the outside, located in a corner building in a residential area with some restaurants and stores. From the outside, it could also be a minimalist, modern café for the daytime. There are a few small outdoor tables, so you can find a seat here, especially during the summer. Inside, you will find what you would almost expect from the “ART” in the name: Clean design, modern, progressive, but not too aggressive, rather timelessly calm, mostly in white, black, and the shades of gray in between.
Copyright: DSTRCT.ART
If you step in you get quite the contrast to the outside view, and you feel more like you get this particular concept inside, a feeling that every bar should create. The seating further back in the room is particularly cool, slightly space-age style, and the cubist-inspired lamps also fit in well with the rest. Another striking feature is the modern art, which is of course not just a nice piece of decor — think about the name of the bar again — but is exhibited on a rotating basis in collaboration with local artists. This should happen more often, as it costs nothing and always provides guests with new, stimulating impressions.
From the premises to the people behind them, as they are particularly important here: Patrick Schweiger and his partner Kathi Niemeyer are responsible for the new bar. Schweiger's most significant previous stop was Pearlz in Bochum, the one well-known, influential bar there, where he worked for five years, three of them as bar manager. You might think that the next step after that would be a bar manager position in a big city before conceiving his own “baby”, but he and Kathi chose a more exciting path. After a few consulting jobs, they toured cafés, roasteries, and restaurants for almost a year with signature drinks as a pop-up concept under the already established name. A great idea to get the name out there, word of mouth and social media are of course ideal for this these days. This was then pursued until a suitable property became available, which is also how we became aware of the concept name.
It was clear from the start that this would be a bar with community ideas and cooperation. In addition to the artists on the walls, they also work with a friend's own little chocolate manufacture (Duchess), for example, which produces its own creations especially for the bar (more on that below). Another example that is a few levels more unique: a couple of stand-up comedy evenings have already taken place, for which the barroom is of course being converted temporarily and now there are even interactive events based on game shows such as Family Feud. These take place every few weeks/months and require a reservation, so you don't have to worry about stumbling into those by mistake. Yes, I also find it kind of weird or let's call it “unusual” for high-class bars. But anything that makes you special and is worth a story gets my approval (though not my presence at those events, bars should only be allowed to be 1/3 full anyway, if you were to follow my isolationist wishes…). Not only that, as far as events and art are concerned, you immediately have to think of some discussions during the Cologne Bar Symposium and in Mixology magazine, “the bar as a cultural space” (and the corresponding protection/promotion by the state and other actors). Without having had that exact intention, they seem to be at the “forefront” of that here, so to speak, and to be able to provide good arguments for accepting bars as special places where culture is created and shaped locally, so soon after their start.
The menu is almost completely changed every 6 months, with 15 + 3 (non-alcoholic) drinks. This is well above average these days, especially for a half-yearly menu plus the frequently changing “Drink Of The Week”. In keeping with the art theme, every drink is presented with a small comic-like drawing and icons on each page. Various characteristics such as “boozy”, “fresh”, etc. are explained with specific symbols on an index found on the first pages and can be seen next to each drink. There is also a nice accompanying text for every creation. Overall, the actual presentation of the drinks is clearly modern and progressive minimalism, which is a trend that is slowly becoming too widespread for me around the world. But hey, I'm not going to criticize the one bar that does it so exceptionally well in terms of taste, for also going this route, the more simple avant-garde style fits in with this whole concept anyway. When it comes to cocktails, many of the drinks contain distillates from the bar's own Rotovap as an ingredient or great cordials, from miso to mango curry, whatever your heart desires. John and I were able to try the first menu volume together, and I tried the second on my own. I think it's fitting to present 2 drinks from each of the two menus this time, a kind of best-of representing my highlights from the bar's first year.
Palo Picasso
| Mezcal Doba-Yej
| Pandan Infused Patron Reposado
| Distilled Lemon Verbena
| Palo Santo Cordial
| Manzanilla Sherry
| Bergamot Perfume
One of the first two drinks on our first visit, and there's nothing better for a bar nerd than that special feeling of thinking “Ah, yes, this is going to be good” and “I've come to the right place” immediately with the starter drink. Just based on the ingredients it was already matching my taste, with mezcal, palo santo and sherry. It is described in the menu as a “heavier gimlet”, after actually starting with a soft Manhattan when planning the drink. I don't find it that heavy in comparison to good, crispy gimlets, but it is indeed wonderfully “funky”, as it is also described in the accompanying menu text. The sherry and the perfectly balanced cordial marry some intense aromas in a beautiful balance, from the mineral-smoky mezcal to the nutty pandan note, lemon verbena and the bergamot on the nose. It almost seems like a (very fragrant) milk punch, as silky as it appears in the body, great craftsmanship. Oh, and accompanied by one of my favorite Duchess chocolates, the “Forest Walk” (“Waldspaziergang”) with pine needles and smoky aromas.
TGIF (Thank God It’s Fennel)
| Bombay Premier Cru
| Valdespino Fino Sherry
| Fennel & Apple Cordial
| Orange Bitters
And we continue straight away, again with Cordial and Sherry. What am I supposed to do? It's simply a great combo. A little drier here compared to the first one, but still velvety and yet with a full aromatic punch, as it should be. A crispy drink that is also slightly tangy and fruity thanks to the Granny Smith apples with that little tart touch. The aroma in particular is absolutely captivating and could really be bottled as a perfume.
Granny Don't Be Hasty
| Angel's Envy Bourbon
| Calvados Christian Drouin
| Granny Smith Cordial
| Sherry Blend
| Waalem White
| CO₂
… let's all ignore the 3rd appearance of “Cordial” and “Sherry” in the recipe, nobody saw that, it's our little secret. Hey, at least this time as a long drink, simply carbonated with their own Co2 system instead of topping it with flat filler from a commercial bottler. DSTRCT.ART even stocks several drinks directly from tabs at the bar, so they are always perfectly carbonated from the 20-liter keg. Here, too, a new carbonated drink rotates in every few weeks and expands the temporary portfolio that way. In the case of the Granny, however, kegs turned out to be more difficult due to the ingredients, so the classic bottle carbonation is used, just as intense and fresh, only a little more time-consuming.
When I tried this as a starter on my second visit, I was very pleasantly surprised at how much I liked it. After all, long drinks have to offer a lot to get me at least somewhat excited, and that was the case here. The sherry blend in particular comes through with surprising clarity and depth, this oxidative, nutty note permeates crisp, green apple, subtle toffee notes from the bourbon and even more grapes and light florality from the white vermouth.
Yellow Mango Curry
| Merlet Cognac VS
| Curry Infused Takamaka Blanc
| Chili Distillate
| Fresh Acidified Mango
| Agave
| Coconut Milk Filtered
As in almost all bars, the new summer menu was a little lighter overall than the previous iteration for fall/winter, so of course I was particularly looking forward to the drinks with more intense flavors. The Yellow Mango Curry was my favorite of the signatures. Curry and chili are seen quite often these days in culinary-inspired bars, but very few can pull it off so well. This one is actually a milk punch, but with the emphasis on the punch, one full of flavor in your face. The Takamaka Blanc doesn't have a lot of %, but the mango, curry and the homemade chili distillate prepared in the Rotovap (Empirical Spirits is sadly no longer available in Germany) are perfectly portioned to fill the whole mouth as an intense, but still smooth milk punch. Fortunately, without that sometimes strange side note when more exotic culinary ingredients are used incorrectly, one that makes you think “this tastes more like food than a drink”, which you occasionally get with similar experiments. Intense, yellow-golden notes and subtle coconut, plus sweet agave. The accompanying praline in white chocolate, also filled with a coconut curry paste, is also an ingenious food pairing. Incidentally, this is also one of my top 2 to 3 special chocolates from the Duchess Pralinenmanufaktur created for the bar. You can also order these as a bar snack in a trio and then choose your three from a dozen varieties, which we really liked as a new finger food idea at the bar.
I should also briefly mention two highlights, namely the House Martini and House Negroni. These two items on the menu change every month or so, and there are currently even two to pick from for each category, which further increases the cocktail selection. Both were fantastic, the former with homemade turmeric distillate (alongside gin), the latter with Timut pepper macerated tequila, blood orange distillate and cinnamon and tonka bean infused Antica vermouth. The House Negroni is perhaps the biggest flavor bomb of the two menus so far and is a pleasure to savor for a long time. Also because the whole creation is diluted wonderfully slowly with first-class crystal clear ice cubes.
(some ingredients were also tasted neat and awarded the “LT Seal of Approval”)
A few brief words about another interesting and creative culinary idea that has already been implemented after just six months. The bar works together with The Tasting Yard. A food lab in Düsseldorf, including urban gardening, 1600 square meters of growing space and experimentation. One of the drinks on the new menu also refers directly to the collaboration, the “Yo Soy Margarita” with garlic honey, koji water and dehydrated soy sauce, among other things. Fascinating and, for my taste, it could have drifted even more intensely into the culinary notes.
We are slowly coming to an end, and this, with its conclusion, is also the reason we have gone into a little more detail in the above article: DSTRCT.ART really surprised us out of nowhere and impressed us upon our very first visit. It was immediately clear that this was one of the most exciting and best new German openings of the last 4 to 5 years. The second visit further cemented the fact that this was no “one-hit wonder”, but rather a new, influential institution in the Rhineland. Full of interesting ideas, even outside the drinks, and with a couple at the helm who exude absolute hosting excellence. Not only that, but if you talk to Patrick for any length of time, you get an idea that the quality of the cocktails is also due to his extended culinary interest. From the aforementioned work with The Tasting Yard, to the subject of tea, which we talked about while discussing the NOMA pop-up in Kyoto, to the very exciting culinary tips for other cities that I was able to collect here. We are looking forward to the next few years with the DSTRCT.ART with a lot of excitement and anticipation.
/rds
Parts of the menu:
